and service after the sale
real legal warrantee is spelled out in your owner's manual,
and we can get into serious trouble if we lay people monkey
with that. Please look there, and if you're unsure what it
all means, compare it with the following explanation:
common for a good quality bike in the USA to have a warrantee
of the welded or bonded parts of the frame against defects,
and a separate warrantee for everything bolted onto that frame.
For some of our bikes, the frame warrantee is for the life
of the original owner, for others it's for five years, and
there may be other variations, besides. As of January, 2003,
the suspension and other parts on most of our bikes are covered
for one year after the date of purchase.
way of looking at things: if it breaks by itself in normal,
expected use within the warrantee period, there's a good chance
it will be covered. If somebody broke it, forget it. If you
never jump your bike and don't let it get rusty and a weld
cracks, we will submit it to the manufacturer. If you whacked
it on a tree and a weld cracks, you're on your own. It is
not our call how warrantee obligations are fulfilled, that's
up to the manufacturer.
Bicycle Shop does have a big part to play during the break-in
period for a new bike. As things get worked into place or
stretch, the gears, brakes, and wheels need readjustment to
avoid premature wear. Brattleboro Bicycle Shop will adjust
anything that needs adjusting on a bike you buy from us for
free for 60 days after the date of sale, as often as it needs
it. Fine tuning, it's free. Repairs of stuff you broke, not
often should the bike be serviced? Some people ride for years
and do nothing - bikes are very forgiving. It may take a few
thousand miles for a bike to get used up if it never gets
serviced. On the other hand, all machines are more pleasing
to operate when regularly maintained. Here's what we do for
our own bikes:
Oil the chain every three hours of riding, more if it
up the tires every ride, and check for cuts that need
and polish the frame whenever it's dirty (for a road bike
that's usually every 1-200 miles, for a mountain bike it could
be every ride!);
the brake track of the rims with rubbing alcohol every
time you see gray streaks or black smudges from the brake
pads. This is also the time to dig out embedded grit from
the brake pads.
month (mtb) or 500 miles (road) -
Measure the chain with
a chain guage or ruler. With the center of a pin at zero,
24 links should be exactly 12 inches. If your chain is 1/16"
over the 12, replace it. If you ride a lot in one or two gears
or have a 9- or 10-speed cluster, replace it before it gets
that worn. Otherwise, your shifting performance will quickly
degrade and the sloppy chain will eat into the sprocket teeth
until a new chain skips on them.
sure there's no water in the shocks.
100 hrs (mtb), 2000 miles (road) or yearly -
Tune it up - Mountain
bikes will need new cables and brake shoes at least once
a year. For road bikes this will depend on conditions of usage.
fork maintenance - If
there's oil in there, change it. Lube the springs and slider
bushings, drain the water that shouldn't ever be in there.
up your inner tubes with
talcum powder or else they'll get worn from being stuck to
the tire casings. Replace them if they're old, abraded, or
the bearings in
the wheels and maybe in the headset. If you still have a loose-ball
bottom bracket (no new bike has this over $450), replace it
with a cartridge and forget about it until it makes noise.