overhaul is a big job. We don't schedule much of anything
else to happen on the same day as an overhaul, so we schedule
them farther into the future than other jobs.
if you smear some grease onto a plate and leave it on a shelf
for three or four years. That smear will dry out, harden,
and be much less useful as a lubricant. The same thing happens
to the grease in all your bearings, only with the added stresses
of moisture, dirt, and microscopic bits of metal worn off
from the bearing races. Grease gets used up and it needs to
again, everything is wearing in proportion to how much it
gets used and how often it is cleaned and lubed. Here's a
listing of things that wear out, with the short-lived ones
at the top and the longer-lasting ones toward the bottom:
- brake shoes
- gear cables/housings
- brake cables
- rear cogs
- wheel, crank, & head bearings
are either doing preventive maintenance or damage
control. If your bike rides OK and you're coming up to
your third (mountain) or fourth (road) tuneup, you should
spring for an overhaul if you are in preventive maintenance
mode. Many people just keep riding until something is completely
shot, then bring it in for a complete rebuild. This kind of
damage control results in us replacing most or all the above
parts at the same time.
the bike down to the bare frame.
cleaning and inspection of frame, fork, and all parts.
or replace wheel, crank, and head bearings.
bike with new parts as necessary.
it up. Same as a regular tune up (see).
you decide to have this work done, please mention to the service
write-up person that you have read this web page. That will
save you having to listen to this explanation all over again!
this costs $240 plus parts.
a very general example, a typical job on a $500-800 mountain
bike could be expected to run about $300. If it really needed
everything down to chainrings and wheels, we would strongly
advise you to buy another bike.